A whole new meaning to "The world is a book..."

The Khuda Baksh Oriental library

If you have the slightest interest in the magnificent contributions and the complex developments in the world of science, philosophy and medicine in the last few hundred years in South Asia and its surrounding regions, you might want to take a look at the trove that is the Khuda Bakhsh Oriental Public Library in Patna. Often just called the Khuda Bakhsh Library, the residents of Patna have prided themselves over its existence for years. The library has seen the city grow and change around it since the close of the nineteenth century even though the library was conceptualised much before that by Maulvi Muhammad Bakhsh. 

Maulvi Muhammad Bakhsh perhaps always knew that he wanted to leave behind a library for posterity. Presumably taken by the advances in printing culture in the lower Gangetic belt and resigned to the gradual decline of the landed gentry in Patna, he struck upon the idea for a collection of great manuscripts that could be viewed and used by all. Before his death in 1876, he left the solemn task to his son, Maulvi Khuda Bakhsh, after preserving a collection of 1400 manuscripts himself. A noted scholar in Arabic with a great love for Persian and Urdu, Khuda Bakhsh invested all efforts into realising the idea of the grand public library.

Khan Bahadur Khuda Baksh

Khuda Bakhsh was perhaps the best person to set up such a library, if one is to go by Jadunath Sarkar’s description of him as the greatest authority on Islamic bibliography at the time. Having been a lawyer at the Nizam’s court, his knowledge of the different legal strains and schools of law in Islamic jurisprudence as well as the great debates in Islamic philosophy at the time, was extensive. All in all, he made sure he expanded on his father’s collection of manuscripts sizeably from the original 1400 manuscripts in 1876 to the 5000 documents by the time of his own death in 1908. 

From Sarkar’s description of the man, one finds an image of a serious scholar committed to preserving the knowledge of his time, influenced strongly by a colonial modernity and its spill-over effects. The huqqa-smoking bibliophile now rests in a grave on the premises of the library, oblivious to the generations who have gained from his efforts. His son, Salahuddin Khuda Bakhsh, who took over the reins of the library after his death, was thankfully a similarly dedicated bibliophile. What many don’t know is that he is most famous in literary circles for inviting a fatwa from a fringe Muslim seminary in Patna because he took on a translation project of Joseph Hell’s book ‘Arab Civilisation’ in 1977 from the Jamia Milia Islamia in New Delhi. The scholar Girija Kumar has argued elsewhere that this effort was just another instance of Salahuddin’s attempts to engage with texts that were critical of orthodoxies in Islam. Criticism and reasoned well-knowing debate was the underlying force behind his intellectual drive and it shows amply in the collection at the Library.

If the rich history of the library’s fountainheads is alluring, then the range of collections that the library holds should surely make you jump. Classics from Urdu, Persian and Arabic along with travelogues and rare copies of controversial publications are strewn across the shelves at the Khuda Baksh Library. Sample this: the Jahangir Nama, the Sirat-i-Firoz Shahi, a huge range of publications on Tibb (medicine), translations and original drafts of many biographies (Tazkira) and books numbering more than two hundred and fifty thousand. Biographies were of extreme importance to both Khuda Bakhsh and his son, as a result of which, one sees the vast number of biographies, both translated as well as the original versions in the library. Similarly, memoirs and travelogues like the Ibrat Namah and the Masir-i-Talibi, providing rich accounts of a different time on the continent, are now freely available for students and lovers of history and literature.

Forceps from the era

The Yunani Tibb system of healing and medicine that underwent thorough changes with the introduction of colonial knowledge on surgery and pharmaceuticals would probably have lost a large part of its own scientific history had it not been for the preservation of documents in the Khuda Bakhsh Library. The efforts here are parallel to those made by the famous Hakim Ajmal Khan in then Shahjahanabad, or Old Delhi as we now know it.

Today, the looming building of the Khuda Bakhsh Library has undergone several changes. Many of its collections have been digitized and available for perusal on its website. Many scholars from Patna and the rest of the country have benefitted hugely from these efforts in the last few years by the National Mission for Manuscripts and the administration of the Library. Works on the Safawis (the Safavid Empire) and the Qajars, preserved in the Library, have now helped write broader connected histories of Islamic scholarship across the breadth of Asia. 

The library, over the years, has managed to gather around itself a milieu of academic and cultural efforts that help in its sustenance. Its assemblage of various historic scientific instruments as well as its collection of vivid Patna Qalam paintings are the result of careful patronage and dedicated endeavours to preserve the traces of a complex past. Such a past defies many of our assumptions about the development of cultures and their continued sustenance. If you like to allow yourself the luxury to sit and delve into a different time and think through it, the Khuda Bakhsh Library is one of those places that affords you the luxury to do so. And if you still haven’t made up your mind, let’s just say that a look at the centuries-old and vastly famed ‘deer skin’ leaf of the Qura’an should be an ample reward for taking the road to Bankipur in Patna.

Foreverest

making molehills of mountains

The Everest Base camp was on the bucket list of Morgan Freeman, Jack Nicholson and almost everyone else who was inspired by the movie – and rightly so. It is one of those places where the sting of the cold mountain breeze slowly turns into a pleasure and the mildly salty tea turns into delicacy. And for those with a knack for goosebumps, there is really no need to fret. We took our own little walk in the hills and came back unscathed. We lived to tell the tale, over and over again, to our folks at home and our envious colleagues in office. And here, definitely not for the last time, is one other telling for you.

For our lazy city legs, so used to personal cars and public transport, the trek began at its hardest. When the plane bumped to a landing at Lukla, the excitement in the cabin was noticeable. And the sharp icy wind on the tarmac at Lukla airport greeted us with a hint of what was to follow. After filling ourselves considerably well on some local meat, we began our trek along with a whole bunch of hikers from Lukla only to realise that the muscles needed much more warming up than what we had leisurely allowed them. Breathing heavy and letting the oxygen sink into our muscles, it was the host of warm tea shops that we used to take a well deserved breather from time to time. Stories about Namche Gompa and the almost-fabled tales of adventures on the Everest were soon pouring in as everyone got familiar with each other. Our guide’s favourite story, which really sounded like a good old local joke, was one about an encounter between a European tourist and a yak which left us rolling on the floor.  A good old hearty laugh is just the kind of cheer one needs while trekking uphill if you’re new to hiking or haven’t hiked in a long while. Before leaving, we got a quick brief on the many detours that one can take, off the beaten path, in case one is interested in a tougher and faster hiking challenge. Without the luxury of tea-houses, these paths are for those who have some wealth of experience in their knapsacks to help them along.

We spent the night at Monju imagining what the hills look like when the rhododendrons blossom in the spring months of February to May. Spring and Autumn are the longest seasons here, interspersed with a heavily snowy winter for three months. Early December is just when the possibilities of heavy snow loom on the horizon and since our love for mountains draped in white was what got us going in the first place, indulging in wishful thinking about hues of crimson and ochre was simply just a good way to lull ourselves to sleep. There’s a lot to observe here for anyone who is excited by the marvels and the anomalies in the geology of the wind-swept Himalayas. Khumbu is all about walking and that gives anyone ample time to stop and take a closer look at things along the way.

Namche Bazaar

Our legs were doing much better the next day. The muscles were warmed up and the slight sores from the hiking boots were nicely covered up with medical tape to pre-empt any rashes. The morning hike to Namche Bazar seemed much more comfortable even though the gradient was far steeper uphill. Namche Bazaar is the glue that seems to hold the whole milieu of Khumbu together. We made it to the Bazaar by three in the afternoon on a Saturday, which was just in time to enjoy the weekly market. Before stocking up with supplies for the road ahead, we got some well needed local currency. Medical supplies and other amenities are sufficiently available and the food is a healthy mix of western and local food. Himalayan cuisine and a pizza shop do good business at the same time in Namche Bazaar and with so much as a “what the hell!”, we decided to try our hands at both.

We gave ourselves a couple of days to acclimatize ourselves to the altitude at Namche Bazaar. Altitude sickness is one of the most common problems and acclimatization is absolutely necessary. What helped us most was a walk to the famed Namche Gompa monastery, from where we walked further down along what is an ancient route to Tibet through Thame. This hike was about a day long but helped us ease into the rigour of the altitude. With just one short stop at Phurte, we hiked straight to Thame Gompa. The absolutely gorgeous sight of the Sunder Peak at Thame, accompanied by the various local myths about the mountain Khumbi Yul Lha [5765m] that we heard in great detail from a local doctor friend from the Khunde Hillary Hospital, made this short detour worth its while.

The Sagarmatha National Park

Our many conversations were quite insightful to say the least. The most heated topic of discussion was the proposed rail link between the city of Beijing and Lhasa that would be further extended to a point that is as close as possible to the Everest Base Camp, from the North-East. While many feared that the joys of walking across the Sagarmatha National Park, where other modes of travel are virtually absent, would be ruined with the rail link, others seemed to hold concerns of the local economy and the environment’s ability to take more human traffic. We returned to Namche Bazaar considerably better informed about the deeper and subtler fault lines in this part of the Himalayas.

The next day’s hike was easier on the muscles, given the two days in Namche Bazaar. Armed with fresh supplies, we headed for Tengboche. The water-driven prayer wheels at Phungi Thanga on the way were an absolute delight and the people were more friendly than usual as they headed us off towards the steep climb to Tengboche, warning us most profusely to go slow given the thin air at the altitude. We spent the night at the village before taking on the daunting climb to Pheriche. This particular climb allows rather little time to see or explore anything if one is hiking slowly. The stinging air at Pheriche pass is quite a mouthful and it is advisable to prepare oneself for the altitude as much as possible. We took another whole day at Pheriche to acclimatize ourselves and some light breathing exercises are most useful. We took a short trip to the Tokyo Medical University Clinic and met some very dedicated professionals, leaving us both reassured and inspired.

From Pheriche, we began the last leg of our climb till Lobuche. After a generally uneventful hike and some delicious hot soup, we bottled our excitement long enough to wake up at the break of dawn the next day. We were ready in seconds for the hike to Gorak Shep which, we solemnly heard, was not as easy as it sounds. Regular conversations with fellow trekkers made the journey much more memorable for us. Recharged camera batteries were put to great use on the way to capture the white and blue hues of the Khumbu Glacier. The Lobuche Pass at 5110m was stunning in the quiet gleam of the afternoon sun and we waited with bated breath for what was to come.

The lodge at Gorak Shep

Dusk at Gorak Shep was possibly the crowning glory for all the sweat and toil till then. The twilight-orange wall of ice at the peak of Mt. Everest, or Chomolungma, seemed like a piece of mysterious art, about to dissolve into the night, only to reappear for those who walked all the way till here to admire its beauty. As the snow-clad peak changed colours with the setting sun, we cracked a joke or two about a joyful Edmund Hillary murmuring “Tomorrow morning it is, eh?” to an excited Tenzing Norgay before tucking in, one such night many years ago. We shared the excitement, better late than never.   

Winter fashion in India

The intricacies of a phiran

January is still the time of comfort foods and cosy blankets. Though winters in the plains or near the coast of India are equivalent to spring or summer in some countries, the mountains are the real deal. In some of the lesser known places in the Himalayas or the foothills, temperatures drop to -20 degrees centigrade and winterwear becomes and essential part of daily fashion. India being innovative, we had just decided to wrap cool light blankets around us and call them shawls. Moreover, India being diverse, the shawls in different parts of the country are also different.

The phiran is an example of an elaborate and unique form of craftsmanship. Made from wool and often complemented by Pashmina or Shahtush shawls in the Kashmir valley as well as Jammu, the Phiran is worn by both men and women. Different specificities in designs and embroidery methods often distinguish the craftsmanship of one amongst the others. The production of phirans has increased in recent times and older weavers have considerably expanded their reach of customers. Export trade has managed to make this loose but extremely warm piece of winter wear quite popular in many parts of the world. 

Flair at the hornbill festival

The Naga Shawl is one singular piece of woollen wear that manages to stand out while keeping you as warm as possible. Thickly knitted with wool and often dyed in red, black or a mix of both, the naga shawl is convenient and hence, extremely popular. It is found in both niche markets and popular ones depending on where you are but each single Naga shawl delivers on its promise against the cold breeze that threatens to find its way through the pores of your sweaters.

The woollen Nehru Jacket, made most popular by the first Prime Minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru, is an elegant and useful coat that can easily blend into the aesthetic of any kurta-lover. The Nehru jacket highlights the breadth of the shoulders and provides just enough warmth for the mild winter days. Complemented with a shawl, the Nehru coat can significantly enhance the appearance of matching collar shirts as well as longer kurtas. 

where the wool comes from

The Pashmina Shawl perhaps needs the shortest introduction. It is widely known for being one of the warmest and the most exquisite garments in the world. Made from goat wool across the lower Himalayas, the shawl has only gained in popularity over centuries of trading relations across the Indian Ocean as well as the Hindu Kush. It is preferred by people of all ages and is treasured as a possession. Fashion designers often experiment with Pashmina shawls in order to bring out the contrast of the their bright colours against the sober grayness of winter.