of circles and lives

sunrise on the Ganges

Varanasi is a place that gleams. It gleams at night, when the lamps on the ghats cast their soft impressions upon the rolling waves of the Ganga. It gleams at noon as the sharp rays of the sun reflect onto the eyes of a careless onlooker. And it gleams at dawn and twilight with colours that would make a mixed palette left to fade in an artist’s workshop. The splash of lights and colours in its busy markets and in the rows of shops that line the ghats reflect upon the people who flock to this bustling town every day. The rail link between Mughal Sarai and Varanasi, opened in 1862 and the rail-cum-road bridge across the Ganga which was opened in 1887, made sure that this famous ancient town of worship was more accessible for visitors from across the region.

Today, Varanasi is nothing like it was when its first railway station made mass transit a realisable dream for many. Varanasi today, like many other famous small towns and cities in South Asia, is facing a continuous friction between the ‘new’ and the ‘old’.  Someone who has lived and grown up in the pre-colonial localities of Delhi and Lucknow may well be able to sympathise with Varanasi on several different grounds. As the cramped and narrow gullies of Old Varanasi, home to the silk workshops of many famous Muslim weavers of the Julaha caste, contend with the issues of livelihood, a few miles away lie extremely posh residential areas which are seemingly oblivious to the hundred and forty thousand strong slum population in the city.

Dashashwamedh Ghat in Varanasi

With a deep location within the historical development of the various distinctive Hindu, Muslim, Buddhist and Jain traditions in South Asia, Varanasi is a microcosm in its own right. The Dashashwamedh Ghat, supposedly named after Brahma’s sacrifice of ten sacred horses, is a household name with anyone who is fond of the city. A stone’s throw away from the gilded facade of the massive Kashi Wishwanath Temple, this ghat is witness to a lengthy ritual worship of the Sun god and the god Shiva every evening which attracts devotees and tourists in hordes. Spectacular displays with fire light up the face of the river as the drone of the chanting makes everything else inaudible, taking everyone in its wake as the ceremony progresses. The acclaimed film maker Satyajit Ray made these riverside ritual gatherings part of his subject in the famous film based on his equally famous detective novel, Joi Baba Felunath, which brought out the sinister as well as the beautiful around these ritual practices in Varanasi.

The other equally famous ghat in Varanasi is the Manikarnika Ghat, a site for ritual cremations on funeral pyres. Mostly done with sandalwood, hundreds of dead bodies are lined up at the ghat for cremation. Broadly, the Dom caste, which is traditionally an untouchable caste, is responsible for dealing with all that is deathly in dominant Hindu society. It is in Varanasi that this form of oppressive and stigmatised division of labour has perhaps also given Doms a visible prominence, as the ritual order considers working with dead bodies a polluting act and hence needs the Doms. This has also led to the famous titular role of the Dom Raja in Varanasi while at the same it has also meant that the caste-marked livelihoods of many depend on sifting through the ashes of dead bodies in search for precious ornaments like rings or even gold teeth as well as discreetly re-selling ornamental funeral shrouds which are otherwise meant to be specific to each funeral. Beyond Manikarnika ghat lies the Harishchandra Ghat, which is a similar site but is used by families which can’t afford expensive sandalwood. Together, these two ghats hold the term, the ‘burning ghats’, as the funeral pyres are forever burning, a sombre sight on the breezy dark nights along the Ganga in Varanasi. 

the ruins at Sarnath

Within the Buddhist tradition, Varanasi occupies an equal place alongside Lumbini and Bodh Gaya and is a stone’s throw away from the deer park at Sarnath. Buddhists from Sri Lanka and Indonesia regularly visit the city which has also led to the national airlines of these countries to designate weekly direct flights to the newly built international airport outside Varanasi. The Chaukhandi stupa, a short ride away from Varanasi, is a dominating structure atop a huge burial mound. Its previous architecture from the Gupta period has also been modified under the rule of the Mughal emperor Humayun and stands testimony to the many transformations of religious life in the last millennium in South Asia.

Piety has many faces in Varanasi and it would be naive to assume that it is all there is. The city’s many realities are tested against this image time and again and travellers in search for the many-sided and complicated facets of cities would find a lot of food for thought in Varanasi. This city’s immigrant foreign population, much of which is composed of Israeli Jews or residents of the C.I.S states and Eastern Europe, work as yoga assistants or as voluntary labourers in different Ashrams, drive rickshaws or participate in sex work. The impious in the holy city of Varanasi are patrons of non-Indian sex workers, wholly aware of the fetishism of ‘white’ women. These and many other paradoxes are the complicated reality of many cities in the world, to which Varanasi is no exception. While it is important to critically see through the many facades of the city and question its many representations without harbouring prejudiced judgement, it is also important to understand how these differences exist together and against each other, producing a fuller travelling experience.

a poster advertising Ustad Bismillah Khan

Varanasi’s famous silk sarees, known world over for their intricate embroidery and weaving, along with its famous silver ornaments and other metal work is an understated attraction. The weaving process of the Benarasi Silk sarees is a long and arduous one which makes each sari a unique one. Add to that the delicious cuisine of Old Varanasi, most popular during the festivals of Budh Purnima, Maha Shivratri and the Ram Leela, and there is a treat at hand for all the senses as well as the mind. To top it all off, a Banarsi paan (sweetmeats wrapped in betel leaf) and a Bhaang Thandaai (flavoured cannabis-laced cold milk shake) after the meal would make it an experience like none other.

Varanasi has produced many stories. Its voice has been heard across miles of land and sea through those who have spoken of its depths or sung of its beauties. If you have been spellbound by the late Ustad Bismillah Khan playing the Raag Maalkauns on his famous shehnai at the Queen Elizabeth Hall in London, then you would love to see the city where it all began. If you haven’t done either, make the trip anyway – you’ll hear the brilliant shehnai renditions at the Kashi Wishwanath Temple every evening. It is where the great Ustad started off as well.  

Along the Ganga - From the source to the sea

Most of the Ganges is about quaint fishing boats

The Ganges is more than just a river. It is a symbol. The second longest river of India flowing over 2510km has been important in religion and life. Being a perennial water source providing fertile soil all around it, the Ganges has also been the source of major kingdoms and an agricultural hub. Cities like Pataliputra, Kannauj, Kara, Allahabad, Murshidabad, Behrampur, Kara and Kolkata had sprung up along its banks and the banks of its distributaries. A journey along this river provides for a fascinating glimpse into how important the river still is.

From the source to the sea, the Ganges is more of a unique entity than a physical river. The river has been made immortal by the legend that surrounds it and the role that it plays in the various legends. The river is also a part of daily life and life on the banks of the river starts with a prayer to it. The journey starts at Gomukh, believed to be the source of the river deep in the upper Himalayas. It winds through Varanasi, one of the oldest living cities in the world and ends at the Sunderbans, the world's largest delta. A part of the journey can be accomplished by rafting (in the upper reaches) and by sailing in fishermen's boats (from Allahabad to Varanasi, from Chandennagore to Kolkata and then in the Ganga Sagar). INDEBO (www.indebo.com) has been one of the pioneers in designing journeys along this river in fisherman boats or rafts.

The storm before the calm in the upper reaches

The upper reaches: Most of the upper reaches have to be walked or can be rafted in. You would trek to Gomukh, believed to be the true source of the Ganga. Here the river is crystal clear, cold and pristine. You can then move on to Gangotri. The ganga is believed to have come down from the heavens at Gangotri.Uttarkashi would be point of interest to you as well. This picturesque town has breathtaking views of valleys and natural skies. From here on, you can come to the twin towns of Haridwar and Rishikesh where the Ganges takes on a slightly milder state. The regions are great for rafting. The towns provide important facets of Hinduism as well as they are some of the holy points and pilgrimage centers for the Hindus.

Along the plains: The ancient and holy city of Varanasi draws pilgrims by the multitudes. On display are the innocence and religious fervour of the people. One of the oldest living cities of the world, Varanasi is an important site for Hindus, Sikhs and Buddhists. Buddha delivered his first sermon close to Varanasi. Many believe, that to die in Varanasi would guarantee salvation. On this journey, Allahabad would be very important as well. The Ganga, the Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati merge at Allahabad.The confluence is the site of the Kumbh Mela. Down the river lies the town of Sonepur – famous for Asia's largest cattle fair where horses, elephants, birds and cows are traded. Further down from Sonepur in the Northern reaches of West Bengal lie Murshidabad (the town of mysteries) and Chandennagore, the French town. Both feature prominently on the way to Kolkata.

The tiger gets more elusive in the Sunderbans

Meeting the sea: Where the river meets the sea lies the Sundarbans - the world's largest continuous mangrove forest. It hosts an amazing diversity of flora and fauna, including probably the largest remaining population of Royal Bengal tigers, the endangered estaurine crocodile, the Ganga river dolphins, as well as an astounding variety of birds. On one of the islands of the Sunderbans is held the annual Ganga Sagar Festival. The river is also famous for the Hilsa – a fish that lives in the sea but lays its eggs 1200km upstream in the river. Due to its anadromous nature, the Hilsa is famous for its taste, especially with the mustard.

When all thats gold, glitters

It is amazing how a city can surprise you when you do not expect much from it. On an otherwise regular journey that comprised of Agra, Varanasi and Dharamsala, we expected to be awed every time we went somewhere. The Taj was expected to be the Taj. Varanasi was expected to be excellent for photo-ops and Dharamsala was expected to be what it was. However, on this journey of comparative religion, we had quite a surprise waiting for us.

The evening Arti in Varanasi. Image Courtesy: Ann Raets

I have never been a great fan of religion. I was never quite keen or quite against it. To each his own. And to me, religion was more of a subject than something that I could actually follow. Moreover, in a country with 6 major religions and a million minor traditions, you would have to forgive my skepticism towards elaborate rituals that are more a show of wealth than a show of faith. Faith itself is hidden somewhere deep inside.

In this aspect, Varanasi itself is quite interesting. Although quite cliched, I have found Varanasi to be quite a fascinating collage every time I have visited the old city. Moreover, taking the boat down the ganges, I see Hinduism for what it really is – a way of life. The fact that it is meant to be this way makes me both proud and ashamed – proud of the fact that such a concept exists, and ashamed of the fact that those in power had twisted it to its current avatar just to suit their profits. Apart from this, it is amazing to see how life revolves and bows down to a river. Maybe Varanasi is one of the few cities to pay homage to something that is so essential. Most great cities are built around a river or a major water source. But most cities have quite forgotten where their water comes from or used to come from. Varanasi is one of the few cities that acknowledges and prays to this fact – and does nothing about it.

From Varanasi we had moved on to Agra and then Amritsar. We had not really expected much from Amritsar. Apart from the symbol or Sikhism, it is not supposed to have much. It does have a symbol of the freedom struggle. But the freedom struggle was in the last century. We have almost forgotten and taken our freedom for granted. Like most places of worship, I had already forecasted what I would see.

Or so I thought. For the Golden Temple is a different world on its own. Gone is the feeling that there are wars going on in some parts of the world. Gone is the memory of the petty squables that we had considered insulting. Gone is the rage that we felt during traffic hours. Gone is the greed we felt when we asked for the salary hike. This was something else altogether – and if I may say so, the closest definition to the divine.

The Golden Temple, Amritsar

The first thing that strikes you is the absence of elaborate shows of faith. Apart from the basic courtesies, everyone prays in the way he or she would like. Some take a dip in the holy water. Some stand in queue to see the holy book. Others just note down the teaching of the day. All that you see are men laughing, women helping the children, people praying in silence and occasionally, the priests reciting verses from the book. The elements of faith to be followed are of one's personal concern and do not need to be shown to others. The people did not jostle for one more minute at the shrines. They did not get any special treatment on account of their wealth. They did not believe in such things. Instead, they went about doing whatever the eye-in-the-sky meant them to do. In a large dining room serving 50000 people a day, you could see people from all walks of life serving and eating. Physically old and mentally young, newlyweds and old couples, the rich and the poor, everyone did his bit to serve food to the other person. Everyone sat on the ground and next to each other. Anyone peeled the vegetables. Anyone cooked the dal or boiled the rice. Anyone made the tea. It was as if “class” had suddenly lost all meaning or reason for existence.

While we were leaving for Dharamsala, my friend told me that it is an amazing feeling to sit there with your eyes closed for 10 minutes and listen to everything around you. He said that he had felt quite at peace after that. Unfortunately, I missed out on that. But it was already quite baffling. The fact that there could be such a utopian practice did not baffle me as much as the fact that such a utopian practice was so simple. Gold itself, seemed to be so crystal clear and simple.