Rath Yatra in Jagannath Puri

Rath Yatra

The month of June is a month of laborious affairs in India – one of the most laborious being the Rath Yatra in Puri. To call it anything short of humungous would be unfair – it is literally the melting pot of the faithful, each of whom stake claim to some part of the massive forty five feet high chariots which they can attempt to pull, albeit for a few seconds. The chariots belong to the deities of the famous Jagannath Temple in Puri – Jagannath, Balabhadra and Subhadra. But more on that later.
The Puri festival has indeed gone global, if one were to go by the numbers of overseas travellers who hit the shores of Puri last month. It is generally argued that the ISKCON’s international outreach has given this festival to a western audience but one suspects there is much more than just that. In any case, the present writer himself has been witness to the Rath Yatra being celebrated in a city as distant from South Asian Hindu faith as Prague in the Czech Republic.
On a tranquil summer day not so long ago, a lazy siesta on one of Old Town Square’s many benches was disrupted by the clanging manjiras of the many Krishna bhakts who accompanied their own chariot (about 20 feet high itself!) down to the banks of the Vltava – not that they could customarily set it afloat but the numbers watching or chanting for the same was indeed a surprise. They didn’t get what they wanted but the point was made – the Rath was no more about Jagannath’s trip to his aunt’s home – it was now a signifier of popular Hindu faith and festivity in a manner much different from the Kumbh or Pushkar.

Sudashan Pahandi in Rath Yatra

So what is Puri about, in the month of Ashad in the Hindu lunar calendar when the moon is at its golden best? It’s an old story which has slowly made its way into the pages of Grandma’s Tales for every school goer in East and South East India – the mighty Jagannath travels to meet his aunt and his queen on this day, thus allowing one and all to view him in all his glory. Jagannath, the limbless god of story books, comes into his own through Vaishnav traditions which borrow somewhat imaginatively from the Skanda Purana and the Rg Veda. The most well-known of the lot is the tale of how Vishwakarma pretended to be a carpenter who arrived at the court of Indradyumna (an otherwise disputed figure himself among Indologists and historians) to carve out idols from a holy log of wood, on the condition that no one else would view his work till it was finished. As is stuff of myth and legend, the condition was broken and the transgression punished – the grand architect vanished without a trace leaving the wooden statues of the siblings limbless, when Indradyumna (or Gundicha, his queen, depending upon one’s source) opened the door to his workshop out of curiosity once the sounds of work had died down.

There are other versions of these tales, depending on whether one factors in the rise of Buddhism in the early centuries of the first millennium A.D – with the spread of Buddhist faith, Puri found newer articulations backed by some more imaginative thinking.

Emerging Devotees flock to pull the Holy Chariots

The most cogent understanding is, in fact, that the Jagannath myth predates these interventions – that is, the Vedic and the Buddhist and even the Jain. Like all dominant religious thought and rituals which need to co-opt and imbibe forms of smaller and less powerful faith systems in order to gain acceptance within larger fora, Vedic writing and cultural production is a resonant story with Jagannath being one instance in a long and fraught history of such ‘assimilation’ – in this case, Jagannath was claimed as an avatar of Vishnu. Combining elements of tree worship along with the cult of the ‘daitas’ as all-purpose servitors, the Vedic intervention brought with it a more ritualised and Sanskritised form of worship. Neem, the tree which Jagannath, Balabhadra and Subhadra are made of, is also a prime constituent of local non-Brahminical and tribal forms of worship – and while the temple does not have an inherent caste hierarchy (which may well be a remnant of Jagannath’s pre-Vedic past), it still is witness to a strict division of labour between ‘daitas’ and the ‘purohits’ who are strict Mahaprastha Brahmins.  
These nine days that the deities leave their abode are considered extremely auspicious. While on a regular day, non-Hindus aren’t allowed entry into the temple, this is one day that everyone seems to be able to partake in the virtues of the holy trio. The Garud-Dhwaja is the official chariot of Jagannath which is followed by the Tala-Dhwaja with Balabhadra and the Padma-Dhwaja with Subhadra. The flags atop the chariots give them their names – each with more than a dozen wheels and a small pantheon of nine blessing deities. These massive chariots are such an exhilarating sight that children save up money over the year or rely on generous grandparents to buy them miniature models of the same – which are then pulled along narrow by-lanes as part of friendly races or just another imaginative game. Craftsmen making these miniature models are their busiest before June – working day and night across Odisha and West Bengal to make sure the models reach the intended markets.

So, the Rath Yatra is not just about Jagannath – it is about a festival that holds different meanings for each of those who partake in it and remains a contested site. For the Vaishnav fold – it is about preservation just as for the Kondhs and other non-Brahminical and tribal communities, it is about memory and the power of myth. For each child, it is an indulgence that he/she will soon grow out of and for all of us who wish to travel to Puri to see what else the Rath Yatra is about – it is an open canvas.

Fairs & Festivals of India

Monks at the Thiksey Tsechu in Ladakh

India is indeed a land of Festivals. Indian festivals boast of India's rich cultural and traditional background. There are end number of festivals which are celebrated in this amazing land. The festivals in India may differ in their celebration and rituals but the commonality in all the celebrations is that it celebrates humanity. They represent the diversity of culture on one hand and unity of India on another hand.

Some of the common rituals, which are followed in most of the festivals, are processions in the streets, decoration of homes and sacred places and traditional and folk song and dance performances. Most religious festivals have elaborate prayers, traditions, customs and rituals attached to them.

Color generally seen at a fair

India is known as a land of many religions and innumerable languages, it might well be described as a land of many festivals as well. There is perhaps not a single day in the Indian calendar when a festival or a fair is not celebrated. Bright colors, brightly lit religious places, decorated houses, sweets and traditional dresses and dances and unwavering enthusiasm are the characteristics of all the festival holidays in India. If someone wants to see the deep roots of the culture, belief, life style, living, food, art, traditions of India, the fair and festivals are the window to view the true colour of India. There are festivals for all occasions which include color festivals, festivals to celebrate change of seasons, festivals connected with the harvesting or sowing of crops etc. Even the birthdays of divine beings are celebrated by connecting them with particular festivals. Indian festivals are celebrated according to the solar and lunar calendars. Consequently, dates & months may vary accordingly.

A Few important festivals of India

Mopin (Arunachal Pradesh)
Mopin is the most important festival of the Gallong community of the Adi Tribes of Arunachal Pradesh. Mopin across Arunachal Pradesh is celebrated for five days in the month of April. It is celebrated prior to the sowing of the paddy.

People worship the deity of welfare in order to get rid of natural calamities, evil spirits and for good harvest, health and prosperity. During this festival, smearing rice powder on each other’s faces marks the beginning of the festival. One other feature of the Mopin festival is a dance known as Popir which is performed in a very elegant manner.

Bihu (Assam)

A Bihu dancer

It is the most important festival of Assam. It is celebrated with great happiness and enthusiasm and is celebrated by all Assamese irresepective of caste, creed, religion, faith and belief.

The Assamese witness three Bihu festivals in a year. Each Bihu coincides with a distinctive phase in the farming calendar. For example, Rongali Bihu marks the beginning of sowing of seeds, the Kati Bihu marks the completion of sowing and transplantation of the saplings and finally Magh Bihu marks the advent of the harvest period. The three are connected with the spring, winter and autumn seasons respectively.

Bali Yatra (Odisha)
To commemorate the glorious past of commercial voyages to the islands of Bali, Java and Sumatra by Oriya traders, a big fair called ‘Bali Yatra’ is held on Mahanadi river bank at Cuttack on the full moon day of the Hindu month of Kartik.

Kartik Purnima was considered the most auspicious day by traders to venture on a journey to distant lands. To mark the occasion; small boats made of cork, coloured paper and banana tree barks are set afloat on the Mahandi river. The Bali Yatra bears testimony to the rich maritime legacy of ancient Orissa. It is also known as Boita Bandana Utsav, or the "festival of boats".

Man and his best friend at the Pushkar festival

Pushkar (Rajasthan)
Held each November at the time of of Karthik Poornima (full moon), the Pushkar Camel Fair is one of the largest cattle fairs in India. During the fair, millions from rural Rajasthan flock to Pushkar, along with camel and cattle for several days of livestock trading, horse dealing, pilgrimage and religious festivities.

The camel and cattle trading is at its peak during the first half of festival period. During the latter half, religious activities dominate the scenario. It is an occasion for Hindu pilgrims to converge for a holy dip in the sacred Pushkar Lake to "wash away the sins of a lifetime" and pay obeisance at the ONLY Brahma temple in the world.

Sonepur (Bihar)
The Sonepur cattle fair or Sonepur Mela is held on Kathik Poornima (the full moon day) in the month of November in Sonepur, Bihar, on the confluence of river ganges and Gandak. This fair attracts visitors from all over Asia. It is the biggest cattle fair of Asia and goes on for around one month.

Horses at Sonepur

It is quite an exciting fair as nearly all the animals of different breeds are bought here for sale. Persian Horses, Camels, Guinea Pigs, Dogs, Bears, Cats, Rabbits, Buffaloes, Donkeys, Ponies, Sheep etc are specially brought here for sale and buyers from across the globe come to buy the best of breeds from here. A major attraction is the sight of numerous beautifully decorated Elephants lined up for sale.

Kullu Dussehra (Himachal Pradesh)
Dussehra, symbolising the victory of Rama over Ravana, is celebrated all over India but the Dussehra of Kullu has got its own significance. When Dussehra celebrations come to an end in the rest of the country, they begin in Kullu. Over 600 local deities are brought to pay homage to Lord Raghunath. This is a time when the valley is at its colorful best.

The celebrations continue for a week every year. Dussehra in Kullu commences on the tenth day of the rising moon (the ‘Vijay Dashami’ day) and continues for seven days. On the first day the idol of Raghunathji in a gaily attired chariot and attended by village gods mounted in colourful palanquins, is pulled from its fixed place in the Dhalpur Maidan (open ground) to another spot across the Maidan by big ropes. The pulling of ropes is regarded sacred by the local people. This forms a huge procession. All the gods in the valley visit Kullu during Dussehra in order to pay their homage to Raghunathji.

Elephants at Thrissur Pooram

Thrissur Pooram (Kerala)
Thrissur Pooram, which is known as the "Pooram of all Poorams" or "Festival of all Festivals" is the most awaiting cultural extravaganza in North Kerala.

The festival is celebrated every year during the month of April/May. The sprawling Thekkinkadu maidan located at the heart of the city and encircling the famous Vadakkumnathan Temple is the venue of almost all major events of the Pooram festivals.

The major attraction of this festival is the Elephant procession, which witnesses the participation of elephants from various temples of Kerala. Apart from this splendid procession, other attractions of Thrissur Pooram festival include a spectacular display of colorful fireworks, parasol exchanges, display of pyro-techniques and drup concerts.

Hemis Tsechu ( Ladakh)
The Hemis Tsechu is the largest and most popular monastic festival of ladakh. It is a two day annual festival which is celebrated in the courtyard of hemis monastery. It is celebrated on the 10th day of the Tibetan lunar month. The main purpose of this festival is to commemorate the birth anniversary of Saint Padmasambhava, the patron saint of Tibetan Buddhism and the one who brought Buddhism from India to Tibet. During these two days festivals, the resident Lamas perform sacred masked dances in the courtyard of the Monastery.

The Indigenous People of India

Over the centuries of the rough geographical entity of India, the region has been influenced by most of the major cultures in the world. Being a land of plenty, kings and conquerors from all over the world have been to India – to loot or to set base in the country. From the times of Alexander the Great, to the last British Viceroy, India has been influenced by the West and the East. These influences have been manifested in pratices, rituals, food, fashion and daily life.

However, there are a minor few who were the original people of India. In spite of such invasions and dynasties, the rituals followed by these people have not really been affected. Keeping to themselves, the rituals and lifestyle followed by these people have seldom incorporated any new changes since the time they were recorded. Through INDEBO you can now explore the lives of these people and maybe learn a few tricks on a better way of living. 

There is a substantial list of Scheduled Tribes in India recognised as tribal under the Constitution of India. Tribal peoples constitute 8.2% of the nation's total population, over 84 million people according to the 2001 census. Most of rural India is comprised of tribes, each different in their own philosophy and way of life. The most interesting regions in this aspect are the Himalayas, the hills of Orissa and Chhattisgarh, the Andaman and Nicobar Islands (although you are not allowed to meet them as they are under threat from modern developments and land encroachment), and the Western Regions of Gujarat. The tribal population of India is one of the strongest examples of diversity in a country that is trying to preserve its identity while inviting globalisation.

Arunachal Pradesh: The main tribes of Arunachal Pradesh are the Nishis, The Adi Miyongs, the Membas and the Khambas. Most of them hold on to their legends and the past through stories that they have memorized in verse. The Nishis practice agriculture & animal husbandry and stand out for their unique headdress of hornbill feathers. The Adi Miyongs are mongoloid in race and worship nature. The Khambas and Membas are of Buddhist origin and have preserved records of their ancestry. They interact with other tribes like the Tangins, Ashings and the Simnongs.

Gujarat: The predominant tribe of Gujarat are The Rabaris. Settled in Kutch, the Rabris trace their descent to Shiva. They were semi nomadic tribes, and consider themselves custodians of the camels, cattle and goats that they rear. The women stand out because they always wear black, the color being associated with that of sadness due to some events that they trace to their collective memory. They can be identified by tattoos, long earrings and stretched earlobes. They are adept at embroidery and create art on cloth, with pieces of mirror in various shapes.

Life and times in Orissa

Orissa & Chhattisgarh: Orissa has the highest number of original inhabitants in India. The most colourful of these people are the Saoras, the Gadabas, The Bondas and the Kondhs. The Saoras live in a stratified society and their pantheon consists of innumerable and ever watchful deities and ancestors. They observe a number of ceremonies at different stages of cultivation and other economic pursuits. Unfortunately polygamy is still practiced and marriage by capture is common. The Gadabas are the most colorful tribe in Orissa, are amongst the earliest settlers in the country and trace their origin to the time of Ramayana.They live permanently in large villages. Their language is called Gutab. They perform a dance called the Demsa. The Bondas are visible at weekly haats, (the market), where they come to buy provisions, and sell forest produce and country liquor. They call themselves Remo and speak an Autro-Asian language. They do not wear clothing, which has unfortunately made them the subject of speculation. The Kondhs belong to the dravidian group and speak the Kui language. Kondh life is full of festivities at the time of sowing and harvesting.