The infinity nod

This is one of those months when we haven't travelled. As the BBC had said "nothing happened on this day". We have busy in office working on itineraries, revised itineraries, ammended itineraries, confirmed itineraries, confirmed itineraries that need ammendment, revised confirmed itineraries... you get the point. As a result, this is one of those months that we have not travelled in.

Not having travelled, we have nothing to say. Having nothing to say, we decided to shift focus to a question. The million-dollar question, whenever we have met first-time travellers to India, has been... "What does the shaking of the head mean ?" Further corollaries have been "Does it mean yes or no ? Can be done or cant be done ? Up or down ?"

And thus, on a nice Saturday afternoon, we release our own leaked cables on the headshake. There is no author to this post and the management of INDEBO is not aware of such a post being published.

Now to business. What is generally viewed as "the infinity nod" (so named because of the illusion of the head creating a pattern similar to the infinity symbol) to the untrained eye is actually a generic name given to a few types of nods. Look closer and you will see the nuances.

The vertical nod: We will start with the simple one. This means the same everywhere. Its a yes, yessir, haanji, I approve.... or come here.

The vigorous vertical nod: To quicken things. It basically means "Yes, now moving on..."

The horizontal shake: You would give me a vigorous vertical nod if I explained the meaning to you.

The vigorous horizontal shake: "What you are saying is irritatingly and obviously wrong. I know that. The world knows that. My neighbour's dog knows that. The cow walking down the street knows that." It is generally accentuated by a cringing of the eyebrows or some hand movements.

The infinity nod: This might seem to be as difficult as infinity itself. But in essence, we are simply putting ticks on every point you mention. "Pack your bags." tick. "Make sure you have your passport." tick. "Keep your head straight". tick.

Of course you need a hands-on tutorial in the natural environment. But for that, you know where to be

Surprise - a word long forgotten

Mustard flowers on the way

All that we expected to see was an ancient rock cut temple and no more. Very few people have heard of Masroor and even fewer know where it is.

It was a drive through the mountain roads with tea gardens and yellow patches of mustard on both the sides. Sometimes our way was blocked by herds of goats ,grazing along and chewing on almost everything.It was a pleasant summer morning and an air of soberness had settled in.There were small colourful houses all along the way in the midst of farm lands. Bright coloured wild flowers filled the countryside. Little school kids, with bags slung over their shoulders were on their way to school. They gazed at us, wide-eyed, as we drove past them.Occasionally there were vegetable sellers with their merchandise. Everything looked so pleasant and chaste.The sight was so engaging that I didnt even realize when I had arrived at Masroor.

Yes, the temple was there. But it was much more than what I expected to see – a marvellous creation hidden away from the maddening crowd. The temple was cut out from free standing rocks, one of the few that survive today in India. The temple was partially destroyed in a massive earthquake which rocked Kangra valley more than a century ago. A beautiful specimen of the Nagara School of architecture, the temple had images carved in stone.I could not help but wonder that it could only be a poet who could have conceived such a monument.

The temple, and the school beside it

There was a small beautiful school just beside the temple. The classes were about to start and the bell had started ringing. Students were still pouring in. Some came with bunches of wild flowers, some munching on their still-to-finish breakfast, some came holding hands of their younger siblings. Students assembled at the courtyard for the prayers. Everything was brimming with life. I had always thought I had the most amazing school life. Now I felt that I have grown a bit too fast.

The Principal greeted us and invited us for a cup of tea. For the first time I was inside the room of a principal for reasons apart from the wrong ones. Everyone seemed so happy and curious, at the sudden arrival of the unexpected guests.

There were fields of wheat and mustard all around. The place looked so peaceful, I could only wonder how the people living there would be. It felt that, even time has rested here for a while. The air was so fresh, it felt like a sedative. There was the mild fragrance of flowers in the air. It was time for us to leave for the next destination. As I looked out of the car window, I felt I was leaving behind something .I had a feeling that I will be back again soon.