Monday, April 4, 2011

Surprise - a word long forgotten


Mustard flowers on the way
All that we expected to see was an ancient rock cut temple and no more. Very few people have heard of Masroor and even fewer know where it is.

It was a drive through the mountain roads with tea gardens and yellow patches of mustard on both the sides. Sometimes our way was blocked by herds of goats ,grazing along and chewing on almost everything.It was a pleasant summer morning and an air of soberness had settled in.There were small colourful houses all along the way in the midst of farm lands. Bright coloured wild flowers filled the countryside. Little school kids, with bags slung over their shoulders were on their way to school. They gazed at us, wide-eyed, as we drove past them.Occasionally there were vegetable sellers with their merchandise. Everything looked so pleasant and chaste.The sight was so engaging that I didnt even realize when I had arrived at Masroor.

Yes, the temple was there. But it was much more than what I expected to see – a marvellous creation hidden away from the maddening crowd. The temple was cut out from free standing rocks, one of the few that survive today in India. The temple was partially destroyed in a massive earthquake which rocked Kangra valley more than a century ago. A beautiful specimen of the Nagara School of architecture, the temple had images carved in stone.I could not help but wonder that it could only be a poet who could have conceived such a monument.

The temple, and the school beside it
There was a small beautiful school just beside the temple. The classes were about to start and the bell had started ringing. Students were still pouring in. Some came with bunches of wild flowers, some munching on their still-to-finish breakfast, some came holding hands of their younger siblings. Students assembled at the courtyard for the prayers. Everything was brimming with life. I had always thought I had the most amazing school life. Now I felt that I have grown a bit too fast.

The Principal greeted us and invited us for a cup of tea. For the first time I was inside the room of a principal for reasons apart from the wrong ones. Everyone seemed so happy and curious, at the sudden arrival of the unexpected guests.

There were fields of wheat and mustard all around. The place looked so peaceful, I could only wonder how the people living there would be. It felt that, even time has rested here for a while. The air was so fresh, it felt like a sedative. There was the mild fragrance of flowers in the air. It was time for us to leave for the next destination. As I looked out of the car window, I felt I was leaving behind something .I had a feeling that I will be back again soon.

1 comment:

  1. In India, there are only four single rock cut temples as this style originated around the 7th to 8th century - 'Rathas' of Mammalapuram, 'Kailashas' at Ellora, temple complex at Masroor in Kangra and the 'Dharmnatha' temple at Dhamnar, 65 miles to the South East of Jhalra Patan in Rajasthan. The Rathas and the Kailashas are built in the Dravidian style, whereas the Masroor and Dhamnar ones are in the Nagara style. But unlike the other three, Masroor stands on the top of the hill. The magnificent structure built with a cruciform design bears resemblance with Angkor Wat. Refer to my article in the Travel Section of Geography and You Magazine! Dr.S.Srinivasan

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